Saint-Honoré
Caramel-dipped choux on a feuilletée base, filled with vanilla pastry cream and chantilly
Pâte feuilletée base — → Pâte Feuilletée
- Preferably inversée; classic also works. Roll to 3 mm, cut a 20 cm disc.
Pâte à choux — → Pâte à Choux
- 250 g water
- 100 g butter
- 5 g salt
- 150 g flour T55
- 200–250 g eggs, beaten
Craquelin (for the choux)
- 25 g butter
- 31 g flour
- 31 g light brown sugar
Crème pâtissière — → Crème Pâtissière
- 225 g whole milk
- 25 g whipping cream
- 1 vanilla pod
- 45 g egg yolks
- 45 g caster sugar
- 12.5 g cornstarch + 12.5 g flour
- 2 gelatine leaves (2 g each)
- 25 g butter + 15 g mascarpone
- 15 g cocoa butter (optional, for a firmer set)
Caramel (for dipping)
- 250 g caster sugar
- 100 g water
Chantilly vanille (topping)
- 250 g whipping cream
- 25 g mascarpone
- 8.5 g icing sugar
- Vanilla powder
The Saint-Honoré is one of the great French pastry showpieces — a caramel-glazed ring of choux set on a disc of feuilletée, filled with vanilla pastry cream, and finished with piped chantilly vanille. It combines three core preparations in one: the crisp, layered base of a feuilletée; the airy, hollow shells of pâte à choux; and the creamy, vanilla-forward interior. The caramel dip is its defining feature: each choux is dunked upside-down in amber caramel and set in a ring, creating a crunchy, amber crust that contrasts with the soft cream inside. A Saint-Honoré nozzle (nozzle 20, 104, or 125) produces the trademark rippled cream on top.
Method
Base & choux
- Roll pâte feuilletée (preferably inversée) to 3 mm. Cut a 20–22 cm disc. Dock with a fork. Pipe a ring of pâte à choux around the perimeter of the disc, about 1 cm from the edge. Pipe small choux (about 3 cm diameter) on a separate lined tray.
- For the craquelin: mix softened butter with flour and brown sugar until smooth. Roll to 2 mm between parchment, freeze, then cut small discs slightly larger than the choux. Place one disc on each small choux before baking.
- Bake at 180–190 °C: 25–30 min for the small choux; 30–35 min for the base (the feuilletée disc with the choux ring will need slightly longer). Do not open the oven during baking.
- Cool completely on a wire rack.
Crème pâtissière
- Infuse vanilla in warm milk + cream. Whisk yolks, sugar, starch, and flour. Cook the pastry cream, whisking until thick and boiled for 1 minute.
- Off the heat, add gelatine (bloomed and squeezed), butter, and mascarpone. Stir smooth. Press film onto the surface and chill completely.
- When cold, whisk smooth and transfer to a piping bag with a plain nozzle.
Caramel dip
- Cook sugar and water to a deep amber caramel (about 170 °C). Work immediately — caramel sets quickly.
- Pierce the base of each small choux and fill with pastry cream.
- Dip the top of each filled choux into the caramel, turning to coat. Set caramel-side up on a rack or silicone mat to harden. Work quickly — the caramel cools and sets fast.
- Also pipe some pastry cream onto the feuilletée base (inside the choux ring border) before assembling.
Assembly & finish
- Dip the base of each caramel-glazed choux into fresh caramel, then press along the top of the choux ring border to fix them in place. Work in a ring around the edge.
- Whip the chantilly: combine cold cream, mascarpone, icing sugar, and vanilla. Whip to firm peaks.
- Fill the centre of the tart with the piped pastry cream, then pipe the chantilly in waves across the top using a Saint-Honoré nozzle (nozzle 20 or 104). The distinctive wave pattern requires a single sweep — do not go back over it.
- Serve within 2–3 hours. The caramel softens in the fridge.
Background
The Saint-Honoré is named after the patron saint of bakers, Saint Honoré of Amiens. It was created in Paris in the mid-19th century — accounts vary between the pastry shops Chiboust and Julien on the rue Saint-Honoré. The original used a now-obsolete crème Chiboust (Italian meringue folded into pastry cream), which is rarely made today. The modern version uses a combination of pastry cream and chantilly, which is more accessible and arguably more delicious.
The pâte feuilletée base should be well-baked and crisp — it needs to support the weight of the choux and cream without going soggy. Inversée produces the best result because its higher butter content creates a thinner, crispier base that holds up longer. If using classic feuilletée, bake the base blind first before piping the choux ring.
The caramel timing is the critical challenge. You need it liquid enough to dip the choux and attach them to the base, but at room temperature it sets within minutes. Keep the pan over very low heat between operations, or rewarm gently if it thickens. A wet caramel (with water, as here) is more forgiving than a dry caramel — it sets slightly slower and has more working time.
The Saint-Honoré nozzle (nozzle 20, 104, or 125) has a V-shaped opening that creates the characteristic rippled wave when the bag is moved in a single sweeping motion. No other nozzle replicates this pattern. Piping temperature matters: chantilly that is too cold pipes with sharp ridges; too warm and it loses definition. Pipe cold, from the fridge.
Mistakes I've Made
- Caramel hardened before all choux were dipped. Was working too slowly. Caramel sets in minutes at room temperature. Have all choux filled and ready before making the caramel, and work immediately after it reaches the right colour.
- Choux slipped off the border ring after assembly. The caramel had not set before pressing them into place. Hold each choux in position for a few seconds after pressing — the caramel acts as a very fast-setting glue once it starts to cool.
- Feuilletée base went soggy. Assembled too far in advance. The pastry cream and chantilly both weep moisture into the base over time. Build no more than 2–3 hours before serving, and keep refrigerated until just before.
- Saint-Honoré nozzle wave pattern collapsed. Piped the chantilly while it was too warm. The cream must be properly cold and at firm peaks for the ridges to hold their definition.
Sources
- Saint-Honoré | Charles & Ava —